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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.